Japanese feast at Kyoto Kitchen
I was lucky enough to have a night away in Winchester with my friend Gabbie at the weekend. We’ve been best friends since we were seven years old, and it’s always special to spend time together. This trip was made even more special by a visit to Kyoto Kitchen, a small but perfectly formed restaurant on Parchment Street.
The restaurant was solidly booked when we made our reservation, but we managed to get an early table. It was already busy and buzzy when we arrived at 6pm. The staff were all welcoming and knowledgeable - the best combination of qualities for front-of-house. Although we had to give the table back by a certain time, they didn’t make us feel rushed. And despite being very busy, everything seemed to be running smoothly. I felt in safe hands.
The menu included a helpful reminder that Japanese dining is a bit different to Western style courses, so it’s more like tapas than starters and mains. We ordered three items each and shared them all (and then an extra), and the dishes were brought to us as Chef prepared them. This flowed brilliantly - not dissimilar to a tasting menu. Here’s what we ate:
Scallop Ume-Shiso Ae - lightly blanched scallops dressed with plum and shiso pickle
Gyoza Chicken - pan grilled dumplings with yuzu-ponzu sauce
Nasu Den - cubes of grilled aubergine tossed in sweet sesame miso dressing
Monkfish Tatsuta-Age - sake marinated monkfish in tempura batter, served with sesame sea salt
Lobster roll - poached lobster, asparagus, wasabi tobiko and lobster aioli
Matsumai sushi - seaweed-less, pressed sushi roll with mackerel, shiso, ginger and pickled Japanese plum paste
There was not a weak dish among them - we thoroughly enjoyed them all and trying to choose a favourite proved troublesome.
One highlight must be the soft, sweet, umami nasu den aubergine, as we were compelled to order a second portion! The monkfish was excellent. The contrast between the meaty monkfish and the lightest of tempura batters was wonderful, especially when doused in sesame sea salt. And the lobster roll needs a special mention for being undoubtedly the fanciest sushi I’ve ever eaten - it was delicate, decadent and delicious.
The scallops were served on a shiso leaf, which was an absolute revelation. If I’ve tried shiso leaf before (which I must have, but can’t recall), I haven’t eaten one in its original form. The flavour is so bright, clean and fragrant; it’s almost impossible to describe, but the best I can do is somewhere between mint and meadow grass.
Much like when I visited Japan, I was so impressed by the level of care taken with every dish. Not only does the food look exquisite, the freshness of ingredients and cooking techniques ensure a really memorable meal. We’re already planning our return visit.
70 Parchment Street, SO23 8AT
